New Zealand
I want to say that of everywhere I've been so far, I like New Zealand best, but I'm already starting to fall in love with Australia. But I can say that New Zealand is a beautifully young, raw land filled with interesting, opinionated people who love to welcome newcomers. Well, all except for the newcomers who are driving up house prices all over the country... This is incomplete, more because I haven't consistently had time then because the areas mentioned were my favorite places; in planning for New Zealand, I recommend you spend more time than you'd planned everywhere, and don't admit to any farmers that you don't know what sheep crutching is. Unless otherwise specified, prices are quoted in local currency, I'm using metric because its a lot more practical than empirical, and, of course, this work is completely copyrighted. If you don't believe me, ask my lawyer; he'll sue you when he graduates from law school. (: Ah, and by the way; I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong with the programming to get the text to be left justified. If you have any ideas, email me.
North IslandAuckland
Arriving in the Auckland international terminal you get your first glimpse- or rather, taste, of the kind
of welcome you'll come to expect by the time you leave New Zealand. As soon as you clear Passport Control, there is a large sign
and a bigger lounge advertising free coffee and tea. Staffed by volunteers who are smilingly cheerful even at
(groan) five a.m., they even provide little stirrers and coffee sugar (another Kiwi delicacy). While the dollar is
stronger here than it has been for years, it is still a very good value against the Euro, Pound, and American dollar-
when I arrived, about .56 US was equivalent to a Kiwi dollar. I can't really speak to accommodations in Auckland
(or anywhere in New Zealand, for that matter) but the Information center at the airport is very informative.
To save the $12 Super Shuttle fare from the airport, stay at the Aloe Backpackers in Parnell, who offer to pay for your ride.
Depending on what you prefer, the suburbs are probably your best option for budget accommodation.
The central city backpackers (what Kiwis call youth hostels) are sprawlingly big, and reputed to be party central
until roughly 4 a.m. Parnell, and Ponsonby are two suburbs that have a lot of interesting hostels, coffee shops, and live music.
I was disappointed to see a Starbucks about a block from the Aloe Backpackers (We're funky. rU?)
but they assured me that no one really goes there.
I actually have to admit that I didn't spend much time in Auckland.
Going, coming, but not staying. The train seems fairly economical and services the outlying suburbs
(e.g. Henderson, where I was staying) and I highly recommend going out into the hills.
Auckland is situated on the narrowest point between the Tasman Sea and the Atlantic, and there are
several places where you can see both bodies of water, separated by as little as 35 k.
Lion's rock is worth driving to and hiking up, though you'll have to time it right; at high tide,
you'd have a bit of a swim to get to the steps hewn into the steep rock.
Rotovegas. Possibly the biggest tourist town in New Zealand, and certainly the biggest
draw on the North Island. The miasma of sulphurous Consumerism isn't your imagination;
Rotorua is the center of a region that experiences a great deal of geothermal activity.
The town itself sits in a volcanic bowl on the edge of a lake. A large island sits in the center of the lake,
providing the basis for one of the local legends. And it smells. Your first whiff comes as you barrel down route 1,
passing fields (or "paddocks") filled with cows, goats, and millions upon millions of sheep. Big Sheep, small sheep, dirty sheep,
shorn sheep, fluffy Sheep-after a an afternoon driving in New Zealand, you can understand how there can be 3 sheep for
every person in NZ.
Don't blame the cows for the stench. They're in enough trouble with Parliament trying to pass a bill that would
charge farmers for their cows flatulence. Driving into town, you pass several of the more major tourist attractions:
the luge is an internationally renowned experience advertising more than 8000 satisfied screaming riders. I actually
didn't make it to the luge it rained heavily both days we were in Rotorua. In addition to The
Luge, there is a gondola ride at $15
(or you can get gondola rides and 5-luge pass for $29 Kiwi) the same complex offers downhill mountain biking,
VR shooting, and has a hill-top cafe.
The cafe features stunning views of the city, lake and island against the lush green background of North Island New Zealand.
Its prices are equally stunning-pack a sack lunch. $15 for the gondola ride is well worth the view.
There's a plethora of hostels in Rotorua and pretty much all of them are near, inexpensive, and in close proximity to
something desirable, so I won't go into that. I Stayed at the Prince's Gate, a swank Victorian hotel by the lake shore.
It has a beautiful location just outside government horse, Rachel Springs, and the first historic
bath horse in Rotorua, and an easy two blocks from the lake.
Many hotels boast both indoor and outdoor geothermal pools- fun, so long as you don't wear jewelry (or pagers) in!
Rotorua's fame primarily comes from the unusual openness of the local Maori.
With all the geothermal activity, Rotorua was always popular, and frequently fought over as a settlement spot. Now, at the
ruins of an ancient fortified hill village, there is an art institute. For a $19.90 entrance fee, you can visit some Maori carvers
(traditionally and still, male) walk through a Marai, listen to a guide explain the meaning of carvings, see a 40 foot model of a war
canoe, and see, in person real, live, kiwi birds,and, weather willing, geysers. Well worth the expense. Until several decades ago, the art
of Maori carving had almost completely been lost, but through hard work, many tribes traditions have been preserved at the Institute.
They accept around twelve apprentices every year from a pool of hundreds of applicants, and subsidize the apprentices accomodations
and education.
Also check out the Redwoods, the Blue and Green lakes, and the buried village.
Up in the far north of the country, Kaitaia is the last town of any size you'll encounter before Cape Reinga.
Actually, for that matter, I think it *is* the last town you'll come by; while there are some little settlements of houses and a few
scattered stores, pretty much everyone drives to Kaitaia to shop at the Warehouse. The far north has the advantage of being fairly
warm during most of the year. They rarely get snow, while they do get plenty of rain, and you can literally hear the waves pounding
against the beach from farms in Kaitaia. Look out for the Kauri center as you drive north out of town. It is a touristy store, but it has
a bunch of swamp kaoris out in the yard and is worth a visit, if only for the public restrooms and stamps. The land here is
very boggy; over time, when old Kauri trees died, instead of rotting, many
of them were covered by swampland and eventually mired in peat. Now, as the seasons pass, many of the ancient trees
literally pop out of the ground as the drying peat shrinks. Farmers generally burn them, though some are in such good condition
that they can be salvaged-
if they can be lifted! Now, some people actually dig for them, and pull them out of the ground to make things out of the beautiful wood.
This shop has an enclosed staircase fashioned out of a single Kaori that you can walk up. And stamps. If you want to
post anything at the far northern tip of the island (they'll put a special sticker on that says 'Cape Reinga' if you mail it at the box there,
gratis) you need stamps, because they aren't sold up there.
Even if you have a car, I recommend taking the Harrison tours up. They'll drive, letting you sit back
and enjoy the scenery, and there are some very knowledgeable people driving the buses. Our driver had been driving on the tour for 35
years, which boggles the mind. After you visit the cape
and have lunch at one of the side beaches (this area has the finest sand in the world, used for cleaning jewelry, among other things
(try it on your rings, if you don't believe me)) they'll drive down 90 mile beach, which must be experienced.
If you're bold enough to try it on your own, remember to not stop driving while you're in the stream, not to drive after dark,
and to remember your cell phone. There's a three hour window between just before low tide and just after low
tide that its best to drive during, and the beach can be very treacherous. On our tour, we passed what looked
like some scrap metal in the sand; it was actually a car that had only been there about a month. Some guys had been
driving it along the beach at low tide, but it was low tide in the middle of the night, and they hit one of the tiny streams
that dot the beach going around 30 k- their spark plugs got wet when water splashed up, and the car died. They got out,
and decided to wait several hours until it was light to give it time to dry out. When the sun rose, their car was gone- swallowed
into the stream. This was a stream that barely would come up to my ankles! Something that must be experienced
(as well as sliding on the sand dunes, and hanging out with the wild horses). And digging Tua tuas, then prising the smallest
ones open with a knife to eat straight out of the shell. Yum!
South and east of Rotorua is Napier. After casting off from Napier, the next land you'll hit is the coast of Chile. Check out what remains of the Art Deco streets of the town (which survived an earthquake several years ago) the salt water heated outdoor swimming pools along the beach (with a very tasty and reasonably priced cafe attached, if you don't feel like swimming), and the McDonalds that dot almost every corner. Ok, that's an overstatement, but sometimes it seems like you see more American fast food here than in that states...no wonder that some Kiwis don't think all that well of Americans! There is a beautiful lookout at the top of one of the hills in the area, from there you can look out over Hawke's Bay and down to the south. Pack a jacket; even on the sunniest days, it can be pretty breezy on the coast. Incidentally, the west coast is better for surfing; because of the angle of the foreshore in Napier and most of the east coast, the waves slam in with incredible force. Napier is in the heart of the Hawke's Bay wine country; with topsoil that is ideal for grapes, dozens of vinyards have sprung up in this area over the last decade. This is of some concern to local authorities, because they remove the traditional barriers that have stood on the land for the last hundred years, increasing vegetation fire speed and intensity as it rolls over the land. Just south of Napier is the Hastings area, and Havelock North.
Havelock North was impacted by the earthquake as well, but received far less aid than its northern sister. There is a palpable rivalry between the two cities, friendly, but present. Where Napier is a little bit more big city-ish, Hastings and Havelock have retained their small town feel, reminding me a lot of Walla Walla. There are cute shops to browse through, lovely countryside to walk in, some interesting sites, and one of the most energetic and well-trained brigades of volunteer firefighters that I've met so far. In Havelock North, follow signs to a local park, where you can drive, bike, walk, or jog up to the top of one of the tallest hills in the area and look out over the surrounding landscape. A beautiful area to visit- especially if, like me, you enjoy red wine!
Thames/Coromandel Peninsula
Definately worth visiting. The Coromandel is only about two hours from Auckland, so even if you have time constraints, you can visit this beautiful region. Thames is a nice city, and a good place to stock up for your trip around the peninsula (last pack 'n' save for 200 k...while there are 4 Squares throughout the towns, they're a good bit more expensive than the Pack 'N' Save. Thames has some interesting historic value; they used to have a ferry between Auckland and Thames, but dredging the muddy shallow bay got too expensive. There is a beautiful walk along the water at the north edge of town. When I was there, the path stretched about 2 k, but the dirt track goes farther, and the council has plans to build a patch that stretches much farther. The sunrises and sunsets here are gorgeous! This is really a lovely drive- have I already mentioned that? I did around three complete circuits and I'd be happy to return. Just make sure you have enough gas; even the few places that are supposedly 24 hours EFPTOS (Paihea) often are broken or closed after about 6:00 pm.
A complete treat (though this could have something to do with staying in a very good friend's betch (vacation house) and meeting some of the interesting locals! From here, take the $1.00 walking ferry across to Cook's Beach and walk around the area, or go horse riding in the hills, or just try to sample all the different pubs in town. Some of the restaurants on the beach are fairly economical, for the tasty food, good service, and gorgeous location they boast. I recommend the tiny little Cafe that is between the main street and the marina, parallel with main (Nina's?) which serves lovely coffee and has a very neat garden area. All of the hostels are nice, from what I could see. The people are great; by my third night, the bartender was greeting me when she saw me walking down the street. Though that could have had to do with the volume of beer I was consuming...just kidding, had to taste test all the local brands. If you're not really a beer person, like me, you'll be pleasantly suprised by New Zealand. Their beer is really quite superior. My only gripe is that the Information Center in town is not really all that quality, though I'm sure that depends on whether the woman I spoke to is on shift.
Hot Water Beach/Hahei/Cathedral Cove
Possibly the place most foreigners have heard about, Hot Water beach is about 20 minutes drive from Whitianga, or two hours from Thames. You'll see signs on the main road for Haihei and Cooks Beach, follow them towards Haihei, and about 10 k down the road you'll see the turn-off for Hot Water Beach. New Zealand is a very young land, geologically speaking. I won't bore you, but I was fascinated by the unique and rapidly changing islands. Most of New Zealand is geothermally active, and Hot Water Beach is just another example of a hot springs, this time convienantly located on the beach. Like Lion's Rock, there are some provisos: before going to the beach, find out the local low tide time (and make sure you trust whoever tells you!) The springs are only bared an hour before and after low tide. There are two turn-offs; I recommend the second. Drive through town, following the signs, and park by the beach. Remember to lock your car; while I never had any problems, many people warned me about getting their cars broken into or stolen. The first spring is about ten minutes walk down the beach (NE, I think) You'll see large rock formations, a sign warning about swimming between the rocks, and then just feel around the area with your feet. Bring a shovel. You should quite clearly feel the warmth of the sand and water; otherwise, like me, you're just making big holes. Hopefully you don't dig as many as I did (I reiterate my point about getting good local knowledge) They're just clear of the rocks, and quite lovely and warm. Hahei is neat as well; there are beautiful campgrounds with spots overlooking the beach, and when I was there (early spring) almost deserted, tho I'm sure they fill up in summer. There's a neat diving place where you can learn to dive for around $400 all inclusive with a wonderful woman named Wendy. (www.cathedralcovedive.com I think...if not, just turn left up the hill right past the fire station and the grocery store, another immediate left and you'll see her store) I highly recommend diving with her, and in general in the area. Briskly competant, Wendy is a great teacher and a highly skilled (as much as I could tell) diver who teaches in a studio just off the beach. There are no boat launches; Wendy drives her ancient tractor down to the beach, across the stream, and you push the boat into the water. This can be somewhat interesting during the winter, when the tractor hasn't been run in a while... Cathedral Cove is a beautiful walk, and there are great treks in the area. If you can't dive around the cove, make sure you walk out to enjoy the scenery.
I guess by this point you can tell that I really enjoyed New Zealand. The Bay of Plenty is no exception; named after Captain Cook's hungry crew discovered the abundant natural food in the region, it remains welcoming to this day. I arrived in the region the second time on September 11, 2003, and was amazed by the depth of support I received. After being yapped at by a surly woman on the plane about how little she liked Americans (clutching Michael Moore's book in one hand; after laughing at my sister's description of travellers and that book, I was chagrined to discover Jen was right half an hour into my trip. Though as a proviso, I have to mention that I a) enjoyed the book b) think Michael Moore is a supurb author and a patriot in its truest sense and c) if you haven't seen Canadian Bacon yet, you haven't lived) I wasn't sure what to expect. My contact in Mount Monganui (Manganui?) soberly wished me well, and told me that his hopes and prayers had been with us; this was just the beginning of the support I received over the course of the day.
Visit it, if at all possible. There are great surfing beaches, from the mellow waves (for me) to those that my uncle and sort-of cousin prefer. Beautiful islands rise from the mist just off the eastern shore, including a volcanically active island that regularly sends out lazy plumes of smoke. Some of the islands in this area have been used as test areas by DOC (Department of Conservation) to reintroduce the native species and eradicate the non-native invasives that destroy both plant-life and native animals quite successfully. New Zealand has a fascinating (though strangely logical) approach to native vs. non-native species. If the animal, plant, or whatever arrives under its own steam; like a pair of birds several years ago blown over from Australia on a storm, or plants floating on drift wood, they become Kiwi natives. But if humans assist them in any way, they are hunted down and eradicated. Or they try to eradicate them. Luckily, no one has brought any cane toads over here yet. Though there is the leaf fungus that is steadily eating the plastic pond liners in the artificial ponds for heli-dipping in the fire season (this is a serious concern, stop laughing). I enjoyed most of the small towns. Notably, Mount Mangonui has (as the name implies) a large hill they rises steeply at the edge of the water. Mt. M. is the most active shipping port in New Zealand, has another amazing camp-ground right next to the mountain and on the beach, and lots of interesting things to do, I'm sure. But I breezed through and only walked up the mountain, which is highly recommended.
Whanganui is the only other town I'll mention. This town is situated straddling a river which is supposedly brillant for white-bait, and right on the ocean. Lots of interesting out-door activities to take advantage of, and a down-town that is nearly on the ocean.
Ok, so I ran out of time: I was in Wellington for approximately six hours. I enjoyed a beautiful night of live music at Molly Malone's, a plush pub with acceptable food and a brillant group for a Tuesday. And check out the used bookstored- Bizy Bee? They do 'Exchanges' (buy your old books) and have an excellant selection. The ferry is expensive; save money by going in the middle of the night as I did, or buying way ahead of time (only slight discount). Taking a car is far more expensive than going on foot, expect to spend at least $145.
I have to say, what really struck me about Bleinham was the fascinating library they have. Whoever buys all their books is really good. Or at least, she/he purchases a wide variety of literature that I like...whatever. From Picton, Bleinham is an easy hour's drive. I arrived before dawn; if you follow the main road until the roundabout directs you left for Christchurch, and go straight, you'll continue up Redwood (?) street about 5 k until you hit the end of the road, a small park with lovely walking trails. I hiked up to one of their tallest hills, and watched the sunrise over the Marlborough sound. Incidentally, this is one of the areas that was burned in the 2000 Boxing Day fires, one of the largest conflagrations in NZ in recent memory. Notice the exceptionally steep ground; fire behavior here can be very extreme. Bleinham is a great jumping-off point for the rest of the northern south island.
If you make your way into the main town, there are several nice-ish cheap cafes, serving (suprised) pies and coffee. If you're lucky, they have mince, steak, and chicken pies. Just a general note; just because a place considers itself a restaurant in NZ doesn't mean they serve anything other than pies. I'm not complaining, pies are quite nice (for the uninitiated, the pies I'm describing aren't sweet pies; they're basically pastries with some sort of meat folded inside) if a good way to need to take cholesterol meds by the age of 32.
There's a little park with some interesting trees and a tower that marks every quarter hour (with public restrooms) just a bit down from the Pak 'N' Save, or a block from the district council that's worth visiting, and the library is across the road from the Pak 'N' Save.
A must-see. A few hours west of Bleinham, over some pretty twisty roads. Drive carefully; this is supposed to be some of the most dangerous road in New Zealand. Nelson hosts a variety of very cool festivals; while I was there (Sept) the Wearable Arts festival was going on. However, if you get the chance, pig hunting is far preferable. The Nelson area competes with a couple of other cities for the most sun in New Zealand; since it also gets a heck of a lot of rain, its a pretty interesting combination. The west coast of the south island is strikingly beautiful, and the Nelson area particularly so. To the north, the Marlborough sound has lots of interesting things to do/see (as well as more of those repatriated Kiwis on some of the islands) and the beaches are gorgeous. Can you tell I liked the area? Go! Richmond, Nelson's southern neighbor, is just as interesting. This area has a lot of vinyards that produce (purportedly) very good wine. Also more expensive wine than I could afford, so I had to give it a miss, but they dot the back roads. On your way south, be sure to stop at the Spoon lookout.
One of the older Kiwi settlements, Hokotika was settled by gold miners and during the rush, was one of the most populous cities in New Zealand. At that time, it was actually faster to bring supplies from Australia than from the east coast of New Zealand. Until very recently, it has been almost abandoned, and has been one of the cheapest places in NZ to buy a house. In the last year or so, however, it has been discovered; you'll find it very difficult to find houses for sale, and the downtown is undergoing a renaissance. On the way down, be sure to stop at the pancake rocks, but get ready for a crush, if visiting in summer: DOC estimates that it may be the site receiving the most traffic in NZ. There's a great Indian restaurant that just opened up in September along the main street, as well as supposedly the biggest grocery store on the West coast. I have my doubts, but they do sell some pretty nice (cheap) New Zealand reds. Go for a jog along the beach at dawn; it was one of my most memorable times in New Zealand, watching the mist boil off the waves and the mountains over the town. It was indescribable. At one time, a wharf paralled both sides of a river that goes along the edge of Hokotika, but now only a few poles remain. The tide is strong enough that it regularly strands large pieces of wood, stumps, etc on the beach. This is not what you'd call a swimming beach. Remember your sweater; as you get down south, its damned cold in the mornings. And the evenings. And the afternoons. Why did I go to New Zealand with only a rain coat?
Definately worth a visit, if touristy as you'd expect. The glacier here extends down very low, and is supposed to have some wonderful hikes and walks. Don't wait to get anything done here; everything is expensive (Eg- local faxes cost $5/page) It's worth noting that after you leave Fox Glacier, the next gas is in Haast, about 200k south. I didn't want to wait until 7 am to get gas before leaving, and coasted into Haast on fumes, with "No Network" on my cell phone. Phew!
If you can get your hands on a car, the drive between Fox Glacier and Alexandria- heck, Nelson and Alexandria is second to none in the world. there are a lot of hair-pin turns, but it is beautiful country. I felt like I stopped to get out and just stare every ten minutes or so! Alexandria hosts the Blossom festival, which is lovely for the 30+ set and is around September 29th. Another nice place for early morning runs; there is a raised bank that runs roughly along the river past the bridge and towards the mountains. If you get up early enough, there is some wild fauna activity; the Magpies, strange black birds with a long, curving orange beak and orange circles around its beady black eyes are fun to watch. And to chase with your camera, trying to get a picture for your mother... The vinyards around Alexandria are some of the best on the south island. On your way out of town, heading for Dunedin, cross the bridge, take the immediate right hand turn, and keep driving. You'll pass the Touch Yarns shop in about 10k (big sign on right, open from 10am) where they grow all their own fibers. Pretty sweet place to visit, with gorgeous yarns at reasonable prices and amazing textures. Highly recommended. Keep driving, and you'll come to a T. Take a left onto a unpaved road, and follow the signs for the winery (along the same road, no turns). For $2 a taste, you can try the wines of the southernmost winery in the world. Beautiful setting for a vinyard, and while I didn't think much of their celebrated Pinot Noir, for a wonder, I really enjoyed their dry 2001 Reisling.
A city in the English tradition. I'm not really sure what that means, but I heard that at least five times during my weekend in Dunedin. Actually, Dunedin kind of reminded me of California, for some reason. I can't explain why, but I found it charming. The Arc was recommended to me for live music, but when I checked it out, it looked like I needed to be wearing all black and look slightly dissatisfied with my cocktail/life in general to fit in there. Luckily, I discovered an Irish pub right next door with an enthusiastic band on stage. They weren't as good as the group in Wellington, but they were happy to be there, and the crowd knew them well enough to sing a lot of the choruses on the songs. A couple of the more adventururous pushed aside some of the tables and danced, which became more and more just shuffling in circles as the evening progressed and more drinks were consumed. The locals were more than friendly, and its a steep, fun city to walk around in. Some amazing museums, another interesting library (right off the octagon- look for the information center and head towards the restrooms. You can't miss it) and a very wet weekend. I stayed at a lovely B&B whose name I can't remember at the moment, though if you email me, I'll probably dig it up. It was economical, and a great way to relax for the weekend. Free washing, an interesting if slightly pretentious host, simple but tasty breakfasts, a good video library, TV/heater/VCR/phones in every room and free internet. And a cat named Solstice. Very much worth the price.
I actually didn't stay in the city; I stayed at the Marine Backpackers in one of the suburbs. It turned out to be the Marine Bar and Backpackers, but that first night, I was tired enough and it was late enough that I didn't dispute the point. I ended up staying for three nights, and could rarely hear the bar. It was a small, tight single, but it inclued milk, bread, and jam for breakfast, and was one of the cheapest singles in Christchurch (probably because of the distance from the city center). I was about two blocks from the beach, and if you end up staying out here, I highly recommend jogging along the bluff at dawn and sunset; it is an incredibly beautiful sight, with the mountains to the west and the sun glinting on fresh snow. Other than that, it cna be reasonably difficult to get around in, and is a typical city. Cheap internet close to the central library, which, incidentally doesn't get my mark- not worth visiting.